Croatia | Hvar Twists on Traditional Croatian Fare

Hvar may be known as a party town but it's also known for having one of the best culinary scenes of Croatia's islands. So on the recommendations of friends, we set out to make the most of our few meals on the island.

Giaxa

On the recommendation of friends we set out to find a table at Gaixa, a well known restaurant down one of Hvar's romantic back alleys. Gaixa specializes in modernizing traditional Croatian dishes against the backdrop of Hvar's old town walls.

The restaurant has several small seating sections including inside the restaurant (if AC is your priority), a petite walled patio and along the alley street itself. Wherever you sit it feels intimate. The food was beautiful and, considering it's quality, fairly reasonable compared to other high-end restaurants in Croatia.

The meal started with a hearty amuse bouche of simple tomato broth and a chickpea croquette. For a starter we shared the chef's sampling of spreads and bread, and for a main course we each had one of the traditional Dalmatian stews. I enjoyed the Dalmatian Brodesto, a fish stew with fish, scampi, octopus and mussels in a tomato and wine sauce over pollenta. It was surprisingly sweet though the wine and vinegar kept the sweetness from overpowering the stew. To end the meal we shared the lemon cake which was quite dense and very flavorful.

Gaixa is a not-to-miss meal while in Hvar. If you're there during high season a reservation is highly recommended.

Lungo Mare

If Gaixa is the modern twist, Lungo Mare is its counter for true traditional Croatian fare. It's off the beaten path down a residential street about a 20 minute walk from the old town with a bit of elevation. If I hadn't heard it was a fantastic restaurant, Lungo Mare could have turned me away given the touristy-type of awning it has out over its large patio and sharp lighting. I'm so glad we looked past the exterior because once inside it was a charming spot.

As we walked up the stairs to the restaurant we were greeted by a local from the neighborhood who reassured us we had picked the best restaurant on the island and the locals favorite.

As a welcome, the restaurant shared fish croquettes with a tartar-style dip. They were delightful! The restaurant also shared tuna pate with the bread which was impossible to eat a reasonable portion of, it was just too good to leave any behind. We started with a salad and I have to say it may have been one of the best salads I've ever had anywhere, and I've had a LOT of salads! It was incredibly fresh, simply salted and so satisfying. We didn't have any additional starters as we opted for the generous and hearty Hvarska Gregada, a traditional Hvar stew with fish, potatoes, olive oil and white wine. The two of us couldn't even come close to finishing the dish so if you're there with a group consider sharing it 3 - 4 ways. It really can't be missed, it was one of the best dishes of the entire trip!

At the end of the meal, as if you were in your friend's home, the server brought out homemade limoncello to enjoy as we prepared ourselves for the walk back far, far up the hill to our AirBNB. It was a charming spot and I would have been sad to have missed it on my stay in Hvar.