Guatemala | 5 Days of Wonder in Lake Atitlan
Lake Atitlan is mesmerizing. From every angle, in any weather, at all times of day. I can't think of a more captivating focal point from which to build a trip to Guatemala.
Day 1 | Antigua
After a short red-eye from San Francisco, my sister and I arrived in Guatemala City. Given the very early hour, some concerns over safety in GC and our desire to make a stop in Antigua on the way up to Lake Atitlan, we opted for a private car service and tour. I found Tours Atitlan online and had a fantastic experience.
Our driver greeted us as planned outside of arrivals and we were in Antigua by 7:30am. We met our guide at Fernando's Cafe where we enjoyed a lovely breakfast in their courtyard. I was surprised to discover that Antigua, and many other Guatemalan towns, have a yoga/hippie/organic following so many cafes offer vegan, vegetarian, organic and otherwise healthy options.
Our tour guide first took us to the lookout at Cerro de la Cruz, then by foot around Antigua. We stopped in at the Church of San Francisco el Grande and nearby ruins, Plaza Mayor central park, Convent of the Merced, San Jose al Viejo church, the Santa Catalina Arch and spent some time walking down 5A Avenida Norte to go into some of the shops. While in the central park we say men playing the Marimba, a Mayan instrument that looks like a xylophone that four people play at the same time. Under the Santa Catalina Arch we happened upon a holiday procession where young boys were carrying the symbolic casket of one of the celebrated saints. It startled me at first! They looked far too happy to be at a funeral.
About halfway to Lake Atitlan, another 2.5 hours by car, we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Chichoy Chirijuyu and had mouth-watering chicken soup and freshly made tortillas.
In the evening we arrived at our hotel, Casa Palopo. We had dinner at the hotel on their outdoor patio overlooking the lake.
Day 2 | Antigua by Boat
Casa Palopo is a gorgeous hotel south of Panajachel, a main town on the island and jumping off point for most people traveling by ferry to other towns on the lake. Casa Palopo is essentially two guest houses where people can rent a room or the entire house. Each house includes a living area with games and comfortable furnishings and a pool. A main house has additional living space, a long patio and a well-known restaurant. My sister and I stayed in the upper house. It was a hike up some very steep stairs but we also had extraordinary views of the lake and a spectacular infinity pool.
On our first full day in Lake Atitlan we opted for a private boat tour of three towns around the lake. There are ferries from Panajachel that were far less expensive (try a few dollars versus our $130 for the day) however we chose the private boat for a few reasons. First, it came right to the dock at our hotel rather than our requiring to transfer by tuk tuk to Panajachel, about $15 - $20 round trip. Second, it was a Sunday which is traditionally the largest ferry transfer day of the week as people go home to their villages. On these days they overcrowd the boats and you can see them barely treading water. Lastly, the route we wanted to take would have required us zig-zagging all over the lake by ferry.
Santiago
First up was Santiago at the south side of the island. This is one of the largest villages on the lake and we went to walk through the traditional Mayan Sunday market. It was astonishing! Not only were we the only non-Mayans at the market, we were probably the only people over 5 feet tall. We were giants! The market had a great energy and people hardly noticed we were there. On our way out I stopped at one of the galleries on the main road and took home some art from the gallery owner.
San Juan
Next we stopped in San Juan, a smaller town known for art galleries though it was hard to know why. We wandered through a market and some of the streets before taking back off on the boat.
San Marcos
Our last stop was San Marcos, a yoga/backpacker enclave that was completely unexpected. It had a Bali vibe to it and people were out and about. On a recommendation we checked out Lush Hotel but unfortunately had missed the breakfast. The property is gorgeous. It's filled with tropical plants against whitewashed buildings. We walked the sole street in San Marcos, explored some of the back alleys covered in lush jungle foliage and had a light seafood meal on the water.
In the evening we returned to the hotel as it was getting dark and enjoyed some time in the hot tub. We had dinner on the patio overlooking the lake as the nightly lightning storm rolled in - typically overnight at this time of year and typically just over the lake rather than over the hotels.
The Lake
Lake Atitlan is stunning. My friends were so tired of me posting pics of it! It's mesmerizing and I couldn't take my eyes from it. It's beautiful in all weather, from all angles, and luckily there is a view of it from most establishments around the lake. Here are a few of my fave pics.
Day 3 | Lake Atitlan by Air
Lake Atitlan is known for being a beautiful paragliding spot. People come from around the world to train and work here given the consistent updrafts from the lake into the surrounding mountains and the beautiful scenery. We chose Real World Paragliding in Panajachel because it is the only certified shop in the area. They were also super responsive by email and easy to coordinate with.
We jumped in a tuk tuk - the main tourist mode of transportation in the area - and headed into town. Our paragliding instructors were from Germany and Argentina, their English was excellent (not typically important to me except when doing a somewhat risky activity) and they made us feel right at home thousands of feet above the water. The paragliding itself was spectacular. The lake is gorgeous and we went in and out of the fog that rolls in from time to time.
Afterward we wandered the streets of Panajachel, a back-backer type of town. We had beers along the water and went into some of the shops. We stopped in for lunch at El Patio and because it was a Monday were able to have the house specialty, a Caldo de Pollo (chicken soup) with vegetables and fresh tortillas. Maybe the best meal of the week and only a few dollars.
In the evening we returned to the hotel for drinks, some pool time and dinner.
Day 4 - 5 | Guatemala City
Because my sister was in Guatemala for work we had the rare opportunity to visit the Presidential Palace as guests. We heard traditional Mayan music and enjoyed a reception overlooking the courtyard. The Presidential Palace is open to visitors and it's worthwhile to visit. In the evening we tried Kakao, a tourist restaurant for sure but conveniently located and the food was fine.
In the morning I wandered the neighborhood near the Intercontinental Hotel and found little to see or do. Unfortunately with Guatemala City crime rates I thought it best to not wander the city without company and without knowing the language.
Itinerary Overview
Day 1 | Antigua
Transter and tour with Tours Atitlan
Breakfast at Fernando's Cafe
Antigua highlights including San Francisco el Grande and the Santa Catalina Arch
Lunch at Restaurante Chichoy Chirijuyu
Hotel Palopo in Lake Atitlan
Day 2 | Lake Atitlan
Private boat tour to the villages of Santiago, San Juan and San Marcos
Day 3 | Lake Atitlan
Paragliding with Real World Paragliding
Explore Panajachel
Lunch at El Patio
Day 4 | Guatemala City
Transfer to Guatemala City
Private event at the Presidential Palace
Intercontinental Hotel
Day 5 | Guatemala City
Neighborhood excursion
Helpful resources for planning our trip...
Culture Trip history of the Presidential Palace
Lonely Planet Guatemala (and book)
The Guardian on art in Lake Atitlan villages
If I could do it over again...
I would have opted for a night or two in San Marcos at Lush Hotel. It wouldn't be easy to get to after traveling into the country, but it looked a worthwhile journey for a few days of relaxation in isolated San Marcos.
Once we met our tuk tuk driver and realized how easy it was to get into town we might have opted for a few more meals off the property. The food at Casa Palopo was quite good so it we were pressed to leave the convenience and ease of the hotel first thing in the morning or after long days out.
We didn't have time for it but I would have loved to see the Mercado Central (market) in Guatemala City.
