Portugal | 9 Days of Food, History & Rest
Portugal has had my attention for some time. It's "European vacation" but with a little more. A little more art, a little more edge, and a little less-traveled interior. In Portugal I found both the beaten path and the path less tread. I found food, soul, kindness and rest, and the little more I was seeking from a European vacation.
Day 1 | Lisbon
My journey ended late afternoon at the Lisbon airport. I promptly caught an Uber (20 minutes versus 40 minutes by train, and only 9 Euro so worth the extra few) and checked into the Memmo Principe Real Lisbon, a Starwood property I tossed 10k points on for the evening.
To move my legs I checked out some of the shopping on Praca do Principe Real including Bisset which carries upscale brands and Espaco B, a minimalist European fashion design store.
On recommendation I had dinner at O Solar des Presuntos in Baixa just off the main Avenue de Liberdade. The octopus was some of the best I've had anywhere in the world and the sheep cheese and olive oil on the table were to die for.
Day 2 | Lisbon
I switched hotels in the morning to Zuza, a bed and breakfast inbetween Baixo and Barro Alta. The location was key; it was central, a safe neighborhood and down a quiet alley.
Bairro Alto
To really lock in that European vacation feel, I started the day with a pork empada and espresso at Sao Jose in the small Jardim do Principe Real park at the top of Barrio Alto. It was a Friday and the park had a farmers-market style area with small food and artisan stands set up. Music was playing and there was a lively locals atmosphere.
Alfama
In the afternoon I joined Ruthie and Rita's "Lisbon's Best Flavors" Alfama food tour on AirBNB experiences and it was fantastic! The food was wonderful, I never would have found the stops on my own and our guide was absolutely charming. I won't give away the stops, but I will share that we sampled codfish cakes, sardines, linguica and much more. Heed my warning, don't eat before!
I spent a bit more time exploring Alfama including hiking to the top of a hill where Graca, a former parish, is. There are sweeping views of the city from this spot. I snapped the main pictures for this posting at this little spot.
Cantinho de Avillez
While waiting for my appetite to return, I stopped for a tapas and wine at Restaurant Tagide in Chiado and enjoyed the fried green beans. Just after 11pm I sat down at Cantinho de Avillez (fair warning, I visited far too many of the Avillez establishments) and enjoyed a few of the starters. I particularly fell in love with the fish soup.
Day 3 | Lisbon
TimeOut Market
In the morning I set off for Time Out Market, the city's famed food market and often compared to San Francisco's ferry building. It was packed - typical for a Saturday - but I was able to maneuver a seat and pick out a few foods to sample. I chose Miguel Castro E Silva because the menu was straightforward Portuguese and because the chef has several well known restaurants throughout the city. It did not disappoint with the Caldo Verde and sardine and tomato toast.
Sintra & Pena Palace
I spent the afternoon wandering Chiado and Baixa before meeting another AirBNB experience, an afternoon trip to Sintra, the Pena Palace and Europe's most western point. Sintra was charming, I'm so glad to have not missed it. The Pena Palace is... something else. It's gaudy and bright but so very photogenic and a worthy spectacle.
In the evening I enjoyed pork two ways at Bistro 100 Maneiras, a recommendation from my B&B host.
Day 4 | Lisbon
LX Factory
Sunday morning I headed straight for the LX Factory in the Alcantara neighborhood which was recommended by nearly everyone I spoke to including friends and Lisbon locals. I grabbed a light lunch (well, would have been a light lunch had it not been for the bread basket!) of goat cheese and prawns with garlic at Cantina LX and then wandered the area for a few hours. Before heading out I had a drink at Rio Maravhila, the rooftop bar and restaurant over the factory. On the way down from the roof I wandered through some of the factory's artist lofts. Though most were closed, the halls were filled with graffiti and paintings of some of the residence artists including my personal favorite by Margarida Fleming. I had the halls to myself and certainly recommend it!
Lisbon Historical Sights
It being my last day in Lisbon I hit all the tourist spots I'd to this point neglected. In Belem...
First, I visited the Church Santa Maria de Belem.
Next, off the tip of Alex, my Sintra trip host, I skipped the at least 100-person deep ticket line for the Jeronimos Monastery by heading west of the line to the museum entrance. Here they also sell tickets and there is no line at all. In a minute I had my ticket and walked straight into the monastery, easily saving an hour in the hot sun.
Before leaving Belem I visited Pasteis de Belem. Alex once again saved me a good deal of time in line in the sun by telling me to walk to the back and opt for a table. In a few minutes I had a table, espresso and Portuguese custard in front of me.
My last stop of the day was the Castelo de S. Jorge. I thought the 8 Euro fee was well worth wandering the grounds, walking atop the castle walls and visiting the museum. After the castle I wandered through Alfama one more time and found some amazing graffiti art. You walk out of the castle walls towards the Palacio Belmonte hotel. Pass through the hotel's courtyard and down a small tunnel and on the other side is a park of graffiti. On Google maps you can look for the walking path Patio de Dom Fradique.
Avillez Restaurants
Rather than a full meal out, this evening I opted for a few bar eats. I first stopped in at Cantina Ze Avillez for bean and cabbage soup and codfish cakes. Next I walked over to Bairro do Avillez where the bartender greeted me with a shot of tequila and throughout the evening teasingly shot the culinary torch flame at passers by. Despite the looming threat to my eyebrows, I opted to stay at the bar for prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and wine.
Lisbon Street Art
It's everywhere and it captivates! I loved running into the street graffiti around town. Some of my favorites were in the LX Factory hallways, from the views atop the LX Factory at Rio Maravilha, in Alfama down the walking path Patio de Dom Fradique and throughout the neighborhood between Bairro Alto and Chiado near my hotel. Here are a few of my favorites but by no means all of the art I saw! It's everywhere you turn and fun to discover.
Day 5 | Evora
After a packed 20-thousand-plus-steps-a-day-Lisbon-whirlwind I needed a down day. The world was against me on this though, it seemed. After a trialing rental car pick-up (if you can get away with avoiding pick up at the Lisbon Airport definitely do - even with a reservation it took hours) I set off to the spa hotel only to discover the rental car attendant had entered the wrong address. He must have given up on the hotel address because he sent me to the center of Evora, a five thousand year old village that was certainly not designed for the cross-over SUV (unwanted) "upgrade". After a harrowing ride avoiding scraping castle walls, I was really ready to relax! From now on I double check the GPS.
I stopped for the day at the Tivoli Evora Ecoresort. For 80 Euro I had a facial and massage, and laid by the pool for a few glorious hours. It's a small resort a bit out of town with a lovely spa facility, rooftop pool and bar and what is supposed to be a fine eco-driven restaurant.
In the evening I checked into my AirBNB "Evora Timeless Home" with Ana Sofia and she and her husband couldn't be more welcoming. It's a lovely apartment with a spacious patio in a convenient part of town.
In the evening I walked around town, stopping in Giraldo Square, and on Ana Sofia's recommendation enjoyed the street Alcarcova de Baixo, a lively street even on Monday with plenty of outdoor dining. I had an incredible fois gras toast at Morcega Petiscaria and a salad and mouth-watering linguica at Piparoza. It was probably the best sausage I have ever had. I also tried one of the "convent" desserts the city is known for and a smooth white port.
Day 6 | Alentejo Wine Region & Monsaraz
Herdade do Esparao
I love going to wineries and stopping in at a few in the growing Alejanto wine region was a big draw for choosing a few nights in Evora. I spent the better part of three hours at Herdade de Esparao tasting wine and enjoying the five-course lunch and wine pairing. It was a delight, and I've added a separate post just on the tasting and lunch experience.
Monsaraz
In late afternoon I spent a few hours at Monsaraz on recommendation once again from Ana Sofia. At Casa Tial I sampled a few liquers (elderflower, tangerine, mint, lemon and garlic) and walked away with a bottle of elderflower and tangerine. A few of the stores were nice to explore including Xaraz Arte and Coisas de Monsaraz for pottery, and Mizette which has textiles made by hand on the loom in the store. Beautiful work. I also explored the castle and took in the breathtaking views.
In the evening I had dinner at Fialho, one of the older and more well-known restaurants in town. I had a lovely salad and seafood soup. Another wonderful meal in Evora.
Day 7 | Evora & Moncarapacho
In the morning I wandered around Evora and checked out the sights. I visited the Catedral de Evora where you actually walk along the roof to see the tower and the views, kind of unique. The interior of the church has some beautiful frescos on the back ceilings. I also saw the Templo de Diana, the Roman ruins which take all of a minute to see. Across the street I checked out the Pousada Convento, a convent-turned hotel with beautiful interiors and a nice pool.
I stopped into a few shops, ones I liked included Gente da Minha Terra, filled with local ceramics, textiles and bath items, and O Artesanato Cesto. I did notice that textiles were about 50% more expensive in Evora than Monsaraz (the same plate was 6 euro versus 9) so if you're looking to stock up on textiles I would recommend doing it in one of the smaller tourist towns.
On the way down to the Mediterranean coast Algarve region I stopped in Mertola to see the Islamic-style castle and ruins. It was a sleepy town and the ruins and castle were so-so.
In the afternoon I checked into Vila Monte Farm House just outside of Moncarapacho for the "relax" part of this trip and couldn't have been happier with the choice. The property is beautiful and service superb.
Days 8 - 10 | Moncarapacho
Vila Monte was the perfect place to relax before heading back to the routine. The property is peaceful and beautiful. It has an adults-only pool, two restaurants and gorgeous grounds. There are gardens to walk through with views of the valley.
The hotel is a few minutes by car from the small town of Moncarapacho, 20 minutes from Tavira and about 30 minutes from Vilamoura so everything is nearby.
One morning I went into Tavira to check out the scene. It clearly has a party atmosphere in the evening as there were stages set up in the squares for weekend summer evenings. There were also signs of an evening foot court style event with tents and tables for different food vendors. Aside from the evening activity, Tavira was another Mediterranean tourist town with expensive, standard restaurants and loads of tourists.
For dinner one evening I ventured into Almancil to Sao Gabriel, one of several Michelin star restaurants in the region. The food was regionally inspired with Algarve and Alejanto cuisine and ingredients. It was playful, artful food, the service was impeccable and fun (one of the servers was hysterical!) and it was in a completely unstuffy, relaxed courtyard. It was pricey (nearly 100 Euro for the tasting menu) but it was a wonderful way to hit several regional dishes in one sitting. It was definitely a reminder that I was in one of the most expensive tourist regions in the country.
Itinerary Highlights
For this trip I focused on the central and southern region. While I know most would never go to Portugal without squeezing in Porto and Lisbon, I opted to spend more time getting to know the interior and save another longer trip for Porto, the Duoro wine region, more castle towns and the coast.
Day 1 - Lisbon
Memmo Principe Real Lisbon Hotel
Dinner at O Solar des Presuntos
Day 2 - Lisbon
Wandering in Bairro Alto
Alfama food tour
Graca viewpoint
Dinner at Cantinho de Avillez
Day 3 - Lisbon & Sintra
TimeOut Market
Sina & Pena Palace
Dinner at Bistro 100 Maneiras
Day 4 - Lisbon
LX Factory
Belem's Jeronimos Monstary & Pasteis de Belem
Castelo de S. Jorge
Dinner at Cantina Ze Avillex & Bairro do Avillez
Day 5 - Evora
Mini spa day at Tivoli Evora Ecoresort
AirBNB Timeless in Evora
Dinner on Alcarcova de Baixo (street)
Day 6 - Alejanto & Monsaraz
Wine tasting and coursed lunch at Herdade de Esparao
Visit to Monsaraz village
Dinner in Evora at Fidalho
Day 7
Evora sights including Catedral de Evora & Templo de Diana
Brief stop in Mertola
Vila Monte Farm House hotel in Moncarapacho
Days 8 - 10
Poolside at Vila Monte
Dinner at Sao Gabriel
Planning resources I found helpful...
Lisbon Lux's overview of everything at the Lisbon LX Factory
The Guardian's overview of the Alentajo region
TimeOut London's best art galleries to visit
Forbe's Where to Eat in Lisbon Now
LisbonLux street art guide
Eater's The 38 Essential Lisbon Restaurants
Lonely Planet Portugal (and the book)
Culture Trip's The 10 Most Beautiful Castles in Portugal
If I could do it all over again...
Not sure how I could have possible squeezed in more meals but I would have loved to go back a few times to the Time Out Market to try out more of the food stalls and would have loved to try earlier for a reservation to Belcanto, the city's two Michelin star restaurant.
While I was able to enjoy some Fado I could have had more! I would have done more research on which places to go or taken up another AirBNB experience to visit a few more Lisbon Fado bars.
Lisbon is supposed to have several amazing art galleries. With more time I would have enjoyed visiting a few including Wozen and Galeria Underdogs and learning more about the city's street art.
For God's sake don't fall into the tourist trap restaurants in Alfama. I made the mistake of sitting down at one and discovered they used canned seafood. I still can't get the awful taste out of my memory.
I may have tried to squeeze in Obidos and Tomar castles if I wasn't so in need of a spa and relax day on the way to Evora. They aren't far and are somewhat on the way. Jet lag really kicked my butt on this trip but had I been sleeping well that likely would have been a replacement.
