California | Paso Robles and Big Sur Overnight
The bay area has what feels like an unlimited number of weekend adventures within a few hours drive. Maybe because of that, despite living here for 11 years, I still hadn’t had a real Big Sur weekend. I’d driven through but never stopped overnight or done one of her famous hikes. I’d also never been to the heart of Paso Robles. Luckily for me, a friend of mine took it upon himself to plan perfect two days to check those items off the bay area bucket list. Here’s our itinerary for two days and one overnight to explore the best of Paso Robles wine country and a quick jaunt to Big Sur.
Stop #1 – Alta Colina
About three hours south of San Francisco, if traffic is on your side, was our first stop at Alta Colina Vineyards and Winery. The whites and reds were equally exciting and offered at very reasonable prices for California given their depth and quality. I particularly liked the Estate Marsanne (Claudia Cuvee) and the GSM (Gernache, Syrah and Mourvedre blend). The people were laid back, jovial and poured a few extras when they saw we were into the wine and likely to walk away with a few. Had I somewhere to store them I easily would have walked away with a case. It’s also a beautiful tasting room with magical lighting on the hills outside the windows.
Stop #2 – Villacana Winery + RE:FIND Distillery
On the recommendation of Alta Colina, we stopped in at the combined Villacana Winery and RE:FIND Distillery. The only thing separating the two is a sliding door from the wine tasting room to the distillery room. On the Villacana side we found the wines simple and straightforward. It seems like there was something for everyone’s palate and some nicely priced no-particular-occasion wines. On the distillery side there was far more variety than I expected and some interesting flavors. The liquor is made from the grape run off from the wine making process so the liquors, with a few exceptions, are all gluten free. Vodka, gin, bourbon and liqueurs were on the menu and I found all to be delightfully smooth. I particularly liked the gin and walked away with a bottle of the kumquat liqueur which I plan to have with soda water as a lighter cocktail in the summer.
Stop #3 – Grey Wolf Cellars
As we turned on the road that would ultimately lead out towards the coast we stopped in at Grey Wolf Cellars, my friend’s favorite and part of a larger complex with a few wineries, a restaurant and distillery. Grey Wolf Cellars has, once again, a nice set of whites and reds that are all reasonably priced and very solid buys. I loved the Grenache and Cabernet. Apparently this place has some great wine club events and if you go in the summer the patios is beautiful with amazing views. Definitely worth a stop!
Stop #4 – Lunch
Just out the back side door there is a cozy lunch counter where you can order sandwiches, salads and more and then dine on the patio. They aren’t open every day so I recommend you call Grey Wolf in advance to see if the restaurant is open and serving. Typically they are open during the later spring through early fall on the weekends, but I would call just in case.
Stop #5 – Krobar Craft Distillery
Just behind Grey Wolf Cellars, maybe a 2 minute walk at most, is Krobar Craft Distillery. Though famous for their pink gin (think peppercorn more than pink lemonade), they carry a variety of other liquors from vodka to gin to bourbon. The tasting room is comfortable and in summer months you can go out on the patio to enjoy the tastings. Where I found RE:FIND Distillery’s options smooth and balanced, Krobar is more in-your-face liquor. They are strong alcohols, strong flavors and pack a punch. The Sailor’s Gin in particular gave me that little scare of, if you had a few of these who knows what would happen… enjoy, but proceed with caution and a designated driver!
Stop #6 – Town of Cambria and Mozzi’s Saloon
Only about 30 minutes from Krobar and Grey Ghost, and about halfway to the hotel, is the small town of Cambria. The town is a great spot to stop for a walk, a light bite or, in our case, a stiff drink. Plenty of people stay overnight and I’m certain it would be a wonderful place to enjoy a quiet evening. We found ourselves at Mozzi’s, a locals only type of spot with pool tables, juke box and a fantastic old, dimly lit bar.
Stop #7 – San Simeon Elephant Seal Viewpoint
Soon after hitting the Pacific Coast Highway and turning north we came upon the San Simeon beach famous for its elephant seals. They are there most days in large numbers and since they do very little, quite easy to snap a picture of! Our timing was perfect as the sun was on its way down and the lighting was spectacular. I definitely recommend coming to this spot later in the day if it lines up with your plans.
Stop #8 – Ragged Point Inn
Big Sur is pretty famous for its outrageously priced accommodations. A more economical and far more laid back option is Ragged Point Inn. It’s a charming spot with a restaurant, trails and beautiful gardens on site. You have the option of staying in a room in a house with shared kitchen, patio and living spaces (but with your own bathroom) or more traditional hotel rooms in one of the several buildings on property. We were in the house at its farthest point which meant we had views on two sides and from our private patio of the coastline. I couldn’t have picked a better place to stay! In the morning we wandered the grounds and walked down to the beach.
Stop #9 – Los Padres National Forest. Silver Peak Wilderness Trail
Big Sur has more hiking trails than I think one could do in a lifetime, and certainly something not to be missed from the area. So, on our way back up the coast, we stopped off along the highway (which is how you enter most trailheads) and did the Silver Peak Wilderness Trail inside the Los Padres National Forest. There were a few options, anywhere from 5 mile trails to around 13, and we chose the 7 mile hike that took us up switchbacks along the coast and then back into a canyon and the forest. The elevation at the beginning was steep and had it been wet, would have been quite challenging, but the rest was fairly flat and out of the sun. It was a great moderate hike for someone interested in both seeing a bit of the national forest and taking in some outrageous views.
Stop #10 – Nepenthe Restaurant
We worked up an appetite so stopped on our way back at Nepenthe Restaurant. I can’t believe I hadn’t heard of it until this trip but it is certainly a gem on the PCH! On weekends there will be almost certainly be a wait but there’s a charming patio to enjoy a drink on and table tennis or other games to pass the time. The views are certainly worth it and the food is solid. Pictured is a roasted garlic and goat cheese plate with a great bottle of local wine.